If you pulled out a guide book -Rough Guide to the Borders, for example ,in Hutton Main Street-you would be ignored. Not out of unfriendliness by the natives but because it is unlikely that someone would see you in the absence of anybody. Do it in Berwick and if you looked asif you needed help the chances are that the Good Samaritan syndrome would apply- a quick side step or the crossing of the road to the other side.
Not so in Amman 'down town' (US 'English' rules ok) Pull out a map or a book and the nearest bystander is by your side. Brushing side your feeble halting Arabic he (unlikely a she) will seek to instruct you in feeble halting English. THe thought is immensely kind the result often irritatingly frustrating especially in those cases when you are directed up a street which YOU KNOW is wrong but it would be most impolite not to follow the instructions until you are out of sight of your kindly informant. And if outof sight means going up a steep hill in 37C of searing heat in the certain knowledge you will have to retrace your steps eventually and then go up another steep hill, albeit the right one.
Best tactic is to try and memorise your way-the maps in the Rough Guide to Jordan are first rate and if in desperation you do need to peek at one do so in some dark dusty corner as if you were consulting Position # 45 in the Kama Sutra* and did not want the book seller to notice. Even then some sharp eyed passer by may still rush to your aid but the risk is at least minimised.
Small prices to pay for the experience of enjoying the street life in that part of the city which is ignored by most tourists. And you have the comforting feeling that if you had a real problem you would not be short of help.
Lots of it
* Not Recommended Blog-ed. Stick to the single figures.
